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<channel>
<title><![CDATA[Full Force Diesel Performance: Blog Posts]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com</link>
<pubDate>Wed, 7 Oct 2026 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[List of Latest Blog Posts at Full Force Diesel Performance]]></description>
<language>en-us</language>
<isc:store_name><![CDATA[Full Force Diesel Performance]]></isc:store_name>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[One Piece UVC Harnesses & Gaskets 7.3 Powerstroke]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/One-Piece-UVC-Harnesses-Gaskets-73-Powerstroke_b_11.html</link>
<pubDate>Mon, 13 Feb 2023 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ Due to low quality foreign materials, we want to make everyone aware of the issues these can and will lead to over time. <div><br></div><div> We continuously receive phone calls asking for help with an engine running issue that typically leads back to the one piece under valve cover gaskets and harnesses. This style of valve cover gasket has the harnesses built into them that cannot be removed from gasket. They are typically half the price of Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. These are cheap for a reason! Think twice before installing. </div><div><br></div><div> We have chased our tails over the years for weeks at a time, only to replace the valve cover gasket and harness to fix the issue. </div><div><br></div><div> Below are a few complaints (not all) we have found that have led back to the one piece valve cover gasket and harness assy. We highly recommend installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brands for longevity and quality. If you are experiencing any of these issues, replace both under valve cover harnesses and gaskets to rule them out first. We will not diag running issues until the one piece gasket and harnesses have been replaced with Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. </div><div><br></div><div> On a side note: We also highly recommend only installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brand electrical sensors as well. Similar and other issues can occur.</div><div> </div><div>•	Engine miss fire </div><div>•	Contribution codes </div><div>•	High to low side open codes </div><div>•	Glow Plug wiring installed in the wrong pin connector slot </div><div>•	Open circuits </div><div>•	Circuits shorted together </div><div>•	Engine failure </div><div>•	Wire shielding breaking apart </div><div>•	Wires protruding out of plug
 </div><div><br></div><div><img src="/assets/images/Dorman_1cp.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div><div><br></div><div><img src="/assets/images/Dorman_4.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div>         ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/One-Piece-UVC-Harnesses-Gaskets-73-Powerstroke_b_11.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[Due to low quality foreign materials, we want to make everyone aware of the issues these can and will lead to over time. <div><br></div><div> We continuously receive phone calls asking for help with an engine running issue that typically leads back to the one piece under valve cover gaskets and harnesses. This style of valve cover gasket has the harnesses built into them that cannot be removed from gasket. They are typically half the price of Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. These are cheap for a reason! Think twice before installing. </div><div><br></div><div> We have chased our tails over the years for weeks at a time, only to replace the valve cover gasket and harness to fix the issue. </div><div><br></div><div> Below are a few complaints (not all) we have found that have led back to the one piece valve cover gasket and harness assy. We highly recommend installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brands for longevity and quality. If you are experiencing any of these issues, replace both under valve cover harnesses and gaskets to rule them out first. We will not diag running issues until the one piece gasket and harnesses have been replaced with Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. </div><div><br></div><div> On a side note: We also highly recommend only installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brand electrical sensors as well. Similar and other issues can occur.</div><div> </div><div>•	Engine miss fire </div><div>•	Contribution codes </div><div>•	High to low side open codes </div><div>•	Glow Plug wiring installed in the wrong pin connector slot </div><div>•	Open circuits </div><div>•	Circuits shorted together </div><div>•	Engine failure </div><div>•	Wire shielding breaking apart </div><div>•	Wires protruding out of plug
 </div><div><br></div><div><img src="/assets/images/Dorman_1cp.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div><div><br></div><div><img src="/assets/images/Dorman_4.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div>        ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[Due to low quality foreign materials, we want to make everyone aware of the issues these can and will lead to over time. We continuously receive phone calls asking for help with an engine running issue that typically leads back to the one piece under valve cover gaskets and harnesses. This style of valve cover gasket has the harnesses built into them that cannot be removed from gasket. They are typically half the price of Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. These are cheap for a reason! Think twice before installing. We have chased our tails over the years for weeks at a time, only to replace the valve cover gasket and harness to fix the issue. Below are a few complaints (not all) we have found that have led back to the one piece valve cover gasket and harness assy. We highly recommend installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brands for longevity and quality. If you are experiencing any of these issues, replace both under valve cover harnesses and gaskets to rule them out first. We will not diag running issues until the one piece gasket and harnesses have been replaced with Ford Motorcraft or OE brands. On a side note: We also highly recommend only installing Ford Motorcraft or OE brand electrical sensors as well. Similar and other issues can occur. •Engine miss fire •Contribution codes •High to low side open codes •Glow Plug wiring installed in the wrong pin connector slot •Open circuits •Circuits shorted together •Engine failure •Wire shielding breaking apart •Wires protruding out of plug   ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[11]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Robert Breedlove]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[7.3 Powerstroke Fuel Injector  Operation and Common Failures]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Powerstroke-Fuel-Injector-Operation-and-Common-Failures_b_10.html</link>
<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jan 2023 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ We want to share with you some of the common issues and failures we see with the 
7.3 Powerstroke injectors after many years of rebuilding, and working on them. 
First, we need to know how a Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector (HEUI) works. To 
keep it simple and without overcomplicating things, let's break it down as follows, 
the electronic, oil, and the fuel side. The solenoid (electronic), when energized acts 
like a magnet and pulls up the armature plate and allowing oil to go past the poppet
valve (oil side) and apply oil pressure to the intensifier piston and plunger. Once the
pressure is applied, it pressurizes the fuel until it overcomes the nozzle spring 
pressure, it allows the pintle in the nozzle (fuel side) to lift and fuel can then spray 
from the nozzle. Once the electrical current has been removed from the solenoid it 
allows the poppet to close. The high pressure is then relieved from the fuel cavity 
allowing the pintle to close and stop fuel flow out of the nozzle. The fuel cavity is 
then refilled by your fuel pump. <div><br></div><div> Now that we have a basic understanding of all the moving parts and how they all 
work, let's move to the common issues and failures. Let's start with the most 
common issue we hear about, which is stiction. We have all heard the term stiction, 
but maybe you don’t know what it means. Hot Shot’s Secret explains it best. 
“Stiction is the sticky, gummy residue of burnt oil on moving engine parts that 
cause dragging friction”. Have you ever had a 7.3 or 6.0 Powerstroke that was hard 
to start when cold and even after started it was just really weak and slow to rev, but
after coming up to operating temp it starts to rev faster and run smoother? If so 
that’s stiction. It will build up on the poppet and not allow it to move freely. This 
usually happens when a lower quality oil and high oil temps meet. Throw all of that 
on top of it being 10,000 miles since your last oil change and it’s a recipe for 
stiction. Over time it is going to happen to any HEUI injector, but there are a few 
things you can do to help combat it and keep your injectors healthy as long as 
possible. Always use premium engine oil and change it at the manufacturer's 
recommended service interval. We recommend Schaeffer’s 15w40 in the 7.3's and 
follow that up with a quality Motorcraft oil filter. </div><div><br></div><div>Most of the other issues we see all involve the fuel side. Fuel contamination is a big 
one, and the most common culprits are air, water, and trash. We have seen many 
sets over the years come in with the complaint of white smoke. One of the most 
common causes is the customer has gotten some dirty fuel and those particles and 
debris have made their way past the fuel filter and into the injector/s. We usually 
find that a piece of debris has gotten trapped between the pintle and the nozzle not 
allowing it to close all the way. When that happens fuel is constantly dribbling into 
the cylinder creating that white raw fuel smoke we all hate to see. Periodically we 
get a set in that one or more nozzles have cracked or split. What we have found to 
be the cause is a drop in fuel pressure or water in the fuel. When the nozzle spring 
slams the pintle back shut it relies on the diesel fuel in the nozzle to cushion the 
blow. When the diesel is replaced with air or water it does not provide an adequate 
cushion for the pintle to seat back into the nozzle. This can also cause damage to 
the pintle and nozzle seat allowing that same dreaded white smoke. Most of these 
issues can be resolved by installing a fuel system with a quality water separator and
fuel filter. </div><div><br></div><div>Moving on to our last common issue, install error. Time and time again we get sets 
of injectors sent back to us that have 1 or more blown copper sealing washers. 
What causes this is the injector not being fully seated and torqued down in the cup. 
When this happens the copper sealing washer cannot seal off the hot, sooty 
compression gas from getting into the fuel side of the injector. Once that seal has 
been compromised it will allow compression gas to aerate that bank of fuel 
injectors, and allow that nasty soot and carbon to work its way into the fuel side of 
the injector/s. If ran long enough with a blown copper it can damage the nozzle from
excessive heat, and soot contamination. If you do happen to have a blown copper 
washer that is not something that is covered under warranty. So make sure you 
have a quality shop install your injectors. If you have any questions regarding your 
7.3 Powerstroke injectors feel free to give us a call. We are always available to chat 
and have a knowledgeable staff that is here to help. </div>   ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Powerstroke-Fuel-Injector-Operation-and-Common-Failures_b_10.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[We want to share with you some of the common issues and failures we see with the 
7.3 Powerstroke injectors after many years of rebuilding, and working on them. 
First, we need to know how a Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector (HEUI) works. To 
keep it simple and without overcomplicating things, let's break it down as follows, 
the electronic, oil, and the fuel side. The solenoid (electronic), when energized acts 
like a magnet and pulls up the armature plate and allowing oil to go past the poppet
valve (oil side) and apply oil pressure to the intensifier piston and plunger. Once the
pressure is applied, it pressurizes the fuel until it overcomes the nozzle spring 
pressure, it allows the pintle in the nozzle (fuel side) to lift and fuel can then spray 
from the nozzle. Once the electrical current has been removed from the solenoid it 
allows the poppet to close. The high pressure is then relieved from the fuel cavity 
allowing the pintle to close and stop fuel flow out of the nozzle. The fuel cavity is 
then refilled by your fuel pump. <div><br></div><div> Now that we have a basic understanding of all the moving parts and how they all 
work, let's move to the common issues and failures. Let's start with the most 
common issue we hear about, which is stiction. We have all heard the term stiction, 
but maybe you don’t know what it means. Hot Shot’s Secret explains it best. 
“Stiction is the sticky, gummy residue of burnt oil on moving engine parts that 
cause dragging friction”. Have you ever had a 7.3 or 6.0 Powerstroke that was hard 
to start when cold and even after started it was just really weak and slow to rev, but
after coming up to operating temp it starts to rev faster and run smoother? If so 
that’s stiction. It will build up on the poppet and not allow it to move freely. This 
usually happens when a lower quality oil and high oil temps meet. Throw all of that 
on top of it being 10,000 miles since your last oil change and it’s a recipe for 
stiction. Over time it is going to happen to any HEUI injector, but there are a few 
things you can do to help combat it and keep your injectors healthy as long as 
possible. Always use premium engine oil and change it at the manufacturer's 
recommended service interval. We recommend Schaeffer’s 15w40 in the 7.3's and 
follow that up with a quality Motorcraft oil filter. </div><div><br></div><div>Most of the other issues we see all involve the fuel side. Fuel contamination is a big 
one, and the most common culprits are air, water, and trash. We have seen many 
sets over the years come in with the complaint of white smoke. One of the most 
common causes is the customer has gotten some dirty fuel and those particles and 
debris have made their way past the fuel filter and into the injector/s. We usually 
find that a piece of debris has gotten trapped between the pintle and the nozzle not 
allowing it to close all the way. When that happens fuel is constantly dribbling into 
the cylinder creating that white raw fuel smoke we all hate to see. Periodically we 
get a set in that one or more nozzles have cracked or split. What we have found to 
be the cause is a drop in fuel pressure or water in the fuel. When the nozzle spring 
slams the pintle back shut it relies on the diesel fuel in the nozzle to cushion the 
blow. When the diesel is replaced with air or water it does not provide an adequate 
cushion for the pintle to seat back into the nozzle. This can also cause damage to 
the pintle and nozzle seat allowing that same dreaded white smoke. Most of these 
issues can be resolved by installing a fuel system with a quality water separator and
fuel filter. </div><div><br></div><div>Moving on to our last common issue, install error. Time and time again we get sets 
of injectors sent back to us that have 1 or more blown copper sealing washers. 
What causes this is the injector not being fully seated and torqued down in the cup. 
When this happens the copper sealing washer cannot seal off the hot, sooty 
compression gas from getting into the fuel side of the injector. Once that seal has 
been compromised it will allow compression gas to aerate that bank of fuel 
injectors, and allow that nasty soot and carbon to work its way into the fuel side of 
the injector/s. If ran long enough with a blown copper it can damage the nozzle from
excessive heat, and soot contamination. If you do happen to have a blown copper 
washer that is not something that is covered under warranty. So make sure you 
have a quality shop install your injectors. If you have any questions regarding your 
7.3 Powerstroke injectors feel free to give us a call. We are always available to chat 
and have a knowledgeable staff that is here to help. </div>  ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[We want to share with you some of the common issues and failures we see with the 7.3 Powerstroke injectors after many years of rebuilding, and working on them. First, we need to know how a Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector (HEUI) works. To keep it simple and without overcomplicating things, let's break it down as follows, the electronic, oil, and the fuel side. The solenoid (electronic), when energized acts like a magnet and pulls up the armature plate and allowing oil to go past the poppetvalve (oil side) and apply oil pressure to the intensifier piston and plunger. Once thepressure is applied, it pressurizes the fuel until it overcomes the nozzle spring pressure, it allows the pintle in the nozzle (fuel side) to lift and fuel can then spray from the nozzle. Once the electrical current has been removed from the solenoid it allows the poppet to close. The high pressure is then relieved from the fuel cavity allowing the pintle to close and stop fuel flow out of the nozzle. The fuel cavity is then refilled by your fuel pump. Now that we have a basic understanding of all the moving parts and how they all work, let's move to the common issues and failures. Let's start with the most common issue we hear about, which is stiction. We have all heard the term stiction, but maybe you don’t know what it means. Hot Shot’s Secret explains it best. “Stiction is the sticky, gummy residue of burnt oil on moving engine parts that cause dragging friction”. Have you ever had a 7.3 or 6.0 Powerstroke that was hard to start when cold and even after started it was just really weak and slow to rev, butafter coming up to operating temp it starts to rev faster and run smoother? If so that’s stiction. It will build up on the poppet and not allow it to move freely. This usually happens when a lower quality oil and high oil temps meet. Throw all of that on top of it being 10,000 miles since your last oil change and it’s a recipe for stiction. Over time it is going to happen to any HEUI injector, but there are a few things you can do to help combat it and keep your injectors healthy as long as possible. Always use premium engine oil and change it at the manufacturer's recommended service interval. We recommend Schaeffer’s 15w40 in the 7.3's and follow that up with a quality Motorcraft oil filter. Most of the other issues we see all involve the fuel side. Fuel contamination is a big one, and the most common culprits are air, water, and trash. We have seen many sets over the years come in with the complaint of white smoke. One of the most common causes is the customer has gotten some dirty fuel and those particles and debris have made their way past the fuel filter and into the injector/s. We usually find that a piece of debris has gotten trapped between the pintle and the nozzle not allowing it to close all the way. When that happens fuel is constantly dribbling into the cylinder creating that white raw fuel smoke we all hate to see. Periodically we get a set in that one or more nozzles have cracked or split. What we have found to be the cause is a drop in fuel pressure or water in the fuel. When the nozzle spring slams the pintle back shut it relies on the diesel fuel in the nozzle to cushion the blow. When the diesel is replaced with air or water it does not provide an adequate cushion for the pintle to seat back into the nozzle. This can also cause damage to the pintle and nozzle seat allowing that same dreaded white smoke. Most of these issues can be resolved by installing a fuel system with a quality water separator andfuel filter. Moving on to our last common issue, install error. Time and time again we get sets of injectors sent back to us that have 1 or more blown copper sealing washers. What causes this is the injector not being fully seated and torqued down in the cup. When this happens the copper sealing washer cannot seal off the hot, sooty compression gas from getting into the fuel side of the injector. Once that seal has been compromised it will allow compression gas to aerate that bank of fuel injectors, and allow that nasty soot and carbon to work its way into the fuel side of the injector/s. If ran long enough with a blown copper it can damage the nozzle fromexcessive heat, and soot contamination. If you do happen to have a blown copper washer that is not something that is covered under warranty. So make sure you have a quality shop install your injectors. If you have any questions regarding your 7.3 Powerstroke injectors feel free to give us a call. We are always available to chat and have a knowledgeable staff that is here to help. ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[10]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Zach Cantrell]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[CTS2 VS The All New CTS3 - Should you upgrade?]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/CTS2-VS-The-All-New-CTS3--Should-you-upgrade_b_8.html</link>
<pubDate>Fri, 1 May 2020 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ <img src="/assets/images/image.jpg" alt="cts2 vs cts3" border="0px"><div><p class="MsoNormal">The Edge monitor has always been the best for monitoring our
diesel trucks. While the Insight CTS2 has taken care of just about all
parameters we would ever need but with all the new late model vehicles
available today there is always room to grow. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The all new Edge Insight CTS3 defiantly tops the CTS2 in
many great ways. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img src="/assets/images/Edge CTS3.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">When you turn on your CTS3 monitor it will now boot up in 2
seconds compared to 15 seconds with the CTS2. On board RAM went from 256K to a
now massive 1GB with the powerful ARM 9TI processor. This will for sure speed
up selecting and executing options.  <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The CTS3 now offers a capacitive touch
screen that has a <span style="color:#222222;background:white">super-high
degree of sensitivity and will function like you are using your smart phone
screen. Also, the CTS3 is running 720P resolution compared to the CTS2 with
480P. The screen additionally has a night and day built in light sensitivity
meter that will adjust automatically. </span><o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The screen size stayed the same size at 5” and we are ok
with that. Plenty large to add all of our gauges we want to display and only
takes seconds to change the gauge layout. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">We now have 15+ available gauge screens on the CTS3 compared
to the CTS2 with only 5. With a simple and quick selection, we can toggle the
screens. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">With the CTS2 we always had to connect the monitor to a PC
to set up our EAS sensors. Now additional EAS sensors can be simply setup
within the device and no need to plug up to a PC anymore. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">High speed data logging export is now available on the CTS3.
This will make it so much easier and quicker when your tuner or technician
requests data. Just data log your vehicle, export the file and send. That easy.
<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">Performance testing with track ticket export is all new with
the CTS3. You can now create and export your own track ticket just like being at
the track. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">WiFi has made our lives a lot easier and now with the CTS3
you can connect to a WiFi connection and update your device. No more removing
the monitor from your vehicle and connecting to a computer. Who has time for
that right? Also, for you MAC guys MAC is now supported with the CTS3. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">As usual you can still monitor DPF status and perform a
manual regen on supported vehicles. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">All of the Edge EAS current options will fit the CTS3 except
for the back up camera. If you already have the Edge backup camera you will
need an updated cable to make work. Other than everything will be a
plug-n-play. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">Overall, we find the new CTS3 to be a very nice and recommended upgrade over the CTS2 and sure it will get even better over time with Edge
updates.  <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><br></div>    ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/CTS2-VS-The-All-New-CTS3--Should-you-upgrade_b_8.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img src="/assets/images/image.jpg" alt="cts2 vs cts3" border="0px"><div><p class="MsoNormal">The Edge monitor has always been the best for monitoring our
diesel trucks. While the Insight CTS2 has taken care of just about all
parameters we would ever need but with all the new late model vehicles
available today there is always room to grow. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The all new Edge Insight CTS3 defiantly tops the CTS2 in
many great ways. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img src="/assets/images/Edge CTS3.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">When you turn on your CTS3 monitor it will now boot up in 2
seconds compared to 15 seconds with the CTS2. On board RAM went from 256K to a
now massive 1GB with the powerful ARM 9TI processor. This will for sure speed
up selecting and executing options.  <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The CTS3 now offers a capacitive touch
screen that has a <span style="color:#222222;background:white">super-high
degree of sensitivity and will function like you are using your smart phone
screen. Also, the CTS3 is running 720P resolution compared to the CTS2 with
480P. The screen additionally has a night and day built in light sensitivity
meter that will adjust automatically. </span><o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The screen size stayed the same size at 5” and we are ok
with that. Plenty large to add all of our gauges we want to display and only
takes seconds to change the gauge layout. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">We now have 15+ available gauge screens on the CTS3 compared
to the CTS2 with only 5. With a simple and quick selection, we can toggle the
screens. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">With the CTS2 we always had to connect the monitor to a PC
to set up our EAS sensors. Now additional EAS sensors can be simply setup
within the device and no need to plug up to a PC anymore. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">High speed data logging export is now available on the CTS3.
This will make it so much easier and quicker when your tuner or technician
requests data. Just data log your vehicle, export the file and send. That easy.
<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">Performance testing with track ticket export is all new with
the CTS3. You can now create and export your own track ticket just like being at
the track. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">WiFi has made our lives a lot easier and now with the CTS3
you can connect to a WiFi connection and update your device. No more removing
the monitor from your vehicle and connecting to a computer. Who has time for
that right? Also, for you MAC guys MAC is now supported with the CTS3. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">As usual you can still monitor DPF status and perform a
manual regen on supported vehicles. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">All of the Edge EAS current options will fit the CTS3 except
for the back up camera. If you already have the Edge backup camera you will
need an updated cable to make work. Other than everything will be a
plug-n-play. <o:p></o:p></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">Overall, we find the new CTS3 to be a very nice and recommended upgrade over the CTS2 and sure it will get even better over time with Edge
updates.  <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><br></div>   ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[The Edge monitor has always been the best for monitoring ourdiesel trucks. While the Insight CTS2 has taken care of just about allparameters we would ever need but with all the new late model vehiclesavailable today there is always room to grow. The all new Edge Insight CTS3 defiantly tops the CTS2 inmany great ways. When you turn on your CTS3 monitor it will now boot up in 2seconds compared to 15 seconds with the CTS2. On board RAM went from 256K to anow massive 1GB with the powerful ARM 9TI processor. This will for sure speedup selecting and executing options. The CTS3 now offers a capacitive touchscreen that has a super-highdegree of sensitivity and will function like you are using your smart phonescreen. Also, the CTS3 is running 720P resolution compared to the CTS2 with480P. The screen additionally has a night and day built in light sensitivitymeter that will adjust automatically. The screen size stayed the same size at 5” and we are okwith that. Plenty large to add all of our gauges we want to display and onlytakes seconds to change the gauge layout. We now have 15+ available gauge screens on the CTS3 comparedto the CTS2 with only 5. With a simple and quick selection, we can toggle thescreens. With the CTS2 we always had to connect the monitor to a PCto set up our EAS sensors. Now additional EAS sensors can be simply setupwithin the device and no need to plug up to a PC anymore. High speed data logging export is now available on the CTS3.This will make it so much easier and quicker when your tuner or technicianrequests data. Just data log your vehicle, export the file and send. That easy.Performance testing with track ticket export is all new withthe CTS3. You can now create and export your own track ticket just like being atthe track. WiFi has made our lives a lot easier and now with the CTS3you can connect to a WiFi connection and update your device. No more removingthe monitor from your vehicle and connecting to a computer. Who has time forthat right? Also, for you MAC guys MAC is now supported with the CTS3. As usual you can still monitor DPF status and perform amanual regen on supported vehicles. All of the Edge EAS current options will fit the CTS3 exceptfor the back up camera. If you already have the Edge backup camera you willneed an updated cable to make work. Other than everything will be aplug-n-play. Overall, we find the new CTS3 to be a very nice and recommended upgrade over the CTS2 and sure it will get even better over time with Edgeupdates.  ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[8]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Robert Breedlove]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[4 Inch vs 5 Inch Exhaust Which is Better? - 7.3 - 6.0 Powerstroke]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/4-Inch-vs-5-Inch-Exhaust-Which-is-Better--73--60-Powerstroke_b_7.html</link>
<pubDate>Tue, 4 Feb 2020 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ <h1>What size 7.3|6.0 Powerstroke Exhaust system is right for me 4" or 5"?</h1><p><img src="/assets/images/exhaustblogvs.jpg" alt="4 vs 5 inch exhaust" border="0px"></p><p><br></p><p> </p><p>We get this question quite often for the sales staff. Depending on your application and interest will determine what size is best for your Powerstroke.</p><h2>Sound is the biggest difference between the 4" and 5" exhaust systems. </h2><p>The 4” systems will be the quietest but still give you a louder sound over stock. We typically hear a higher pitched sound with the 4”. The 5” will give you a deeper exhaust tone and will be the loudest. Performance mufflers can also be added to any exhaust system to help rid of drone sounds and quiet down exhaust overall. Typically, if you do a lot of highway driving or want the exhaust as quiet as possible, we would recommend the 4” exhaust system. Both size exhaust systems will give you more turbo noise also.</p><p> </p><h2>Performance gains can be achieved with the 4” and 5” exhaust systems. </h2><p>So what performance gains are made with each of these two systems. What are the requirements to install each? We usually find that the 4” exhaust systems work the best up to 450-500 hp applications and typically have more bottom end torque compared to the 5” within this power range. Over 500 hp can benefit even more from a 5” exhaust system to maximize airflow for any turbo capable of the 500hp+ mark.</p><p> </p><p>Installing a 5” exhaust system will dissipate heat quicker and lower your EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temps) even more compared to a 4” exhaust system. Factory exhaust systems have many restrictions that cannot keep up with a modified engine compared to an aftermarket performance exhaust that have better flow. </p><h2>So what about the high flow muffler options with each exhaust?</h2><div><img src="/assets/images/blogmufflers.jpg" alt="Diesel Mufflers" border="0px"></div><p>Adding an aftermarket performance muffler to your 4” or 5” exhaust system will not have much affect on EGT temps or power of your exhaust system. The muffler however will quieten down exhaust noise and sometimes drone compared to the straight pipe. It often comes down to only preference for the customer and doesn't benefit flow.</p><p> </p><h2>Aluminized or Stainless Steel?</h2><p>Most aftermarket exhaust companies offer an aluminized steel or stainless steel exhaust system. Aluminized is an inexpensive option. It will have 3 layers of material. The innermost layer is the steel core. Outside of that is aluminum and the outermost layer is oxidized aluminum. The oxidized aluminum helps protect the inner layer from corrosion.</p><p>Stainless steel is iron that contains a minimum of 10.5% chromium. Stainless is the most expensive option but you will benefit from strength and longevity over the aluminized steel. Most customers that are in salty or harsh environments will opt for the stainless due to strength and corrosion resistance. Some companies offer long warranties with the stainless steel all the way to lifetime.</p><p> </p><h2>What about adding an exhaust tip to my system?</h2><div><img src="/assets/images/tips.jpg" alt="diesel exhaust tips" border="0px"></div><p>We offer many options for exhaust tips from stainless to powder coated and ranging in different sizes, shapes &amp; designs depending on your preference. Length of the tip will depend on how far and how much room you have on your tail pipe. The majority of customers will opt for the 15” in length as this will take up most of the tail pipe length to maximize the visual impact of the tip. </p><p>Exhaust tips offer no performance gains but are only for bragging rights and aesthetics.</p>  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/4-Inch-vs-5-Inch-Exhaust-Which-is-Better--73--60-Powerstroke_b_7.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1>What size 7.3|6.0 Powerstroke Exhaust system is right for me 4" or 5"?</h1><p><img src="/assets/images/exhaustblogvs.jpg" alt="4 vs 5 inch exhaust" border="0px"></p><p><br></p><p> </p><p>We get this question quite often for the sales staff. Depending on your application and interest will determine what size is best for your Powerstroke.</p><h2>Sound is the biggest difference between the 4" and 5" exhaust systems. </h2><p>The 4” systems will be the quietest but still give you a louder sound over stock. We typically hear a higher pitched sound with the 4”. The 5” will give you a deeper exhaust tone and will be the loudest. Performance mufflers can also be added to any exhaust system to help rid of drone sounds and quiet down exhaust overall. Typically, if you do a lot of highway driving or want the exhaust as quiet as possible, we would recommend the 4” exhaust system. Both size exhaust systems will give you more turbo noise also.</p><p> </p><h2>Performance gains can be achieved with the 4” and 5” exhaust systems. </h2><p>So what performance gains are made with each of these two systems. What are the requirements to install each? We usually find that the 4” exhaust systems work the best up to 450-500 hp applications and typically have more bottom end torque compared to the 5” within this power range. Over 500 hp can benefit even more from a 5” exhaust system to maximize airflow for any turbo capable of the 500hp+ mark.</p><p> </p><p>Installing a 5” exhaust system will dissipate heat quicker and lower your EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temps) even more compared to a 4” exhaust system. Factory exhaust systems have many restrictions that cannot keep up with a modified engine compared to an aftermarket performance exhaust that have better flow. </p><h2>So what about the high flow muffler options with each exhaust?</h2><div><img src="/assets/images/blogmufflers.jpg" alt="Diesel Mufflers" border="0px"></div><p>Adding an aftermarket performance muffler to your 4” or 5” exhaust system will not have much affect on EGT temps or power of your exhaust system. The muffler however will quieten down exhaust noise and sometimes drone compared to the straight pipe. It often comes down to only preference for the customer and doesn't benefit flow.</p><p> </p><h2>Aluminized or Stainless Steel?</h2><p>Most aftermarket exhaust companies offer an aluminized steel or stainless steel exhaust system. Aluminized is an inexpensive option. It will have 3 layers of material. The innermost layer is the steel core. Outside of that is aluminum and the outermost layer is oxidized aluminum. The oxidized aluminum helps protect the inner layer from corrosion.</p><p>Stainless steel is iron that contains a minimum of 10.5% chromium. Stainless is the most expensive option but you will benefit from strength and longevity over the aluminized steel. Most customers that are in salty or harsh environments will opt for the stainless due to strength and corrosion resistance. Some companies offer long warranties with the stainless steel all the way to lifetime.</p><p> </p><h2>What about adding an exhaust tip to my system?</h2><div><img src="/assets/images/tips.jpg" alt="diesel exhaust tips" border="0px"></div><p>We offer many options for exhaust tips from stainless to powder coated and ranging in different sizes, shapes &amp; designs depending on your preference. Length of the tip will depend on how far and how much room you have on your tail pipe. The majority of customers will opt for the 15” in length as this will take up most of the tail pipe length to maximize the visual impact of the tip. </p><p>Exhaust tips offer no performance gains but are only for bragging rights and aesthetics.</p> ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[What size 7.3|6.0 Powerstroke Exhaust system is right for me 4 or 5? We get this question quite often for the sales staff. Depending on your application and interest will determine what size is best for your Powerstroke.Sound is the biggest difference between the 4 and 5 exhaust systems. The 4” systems will be the quietest but still give you a louder sound over stock. We typically hear a higher pitched sound with the 4”. The 5” will give you a deeper exhaust tone and will be the loudest. Performance mufflers can also be added to any exhaust system to help rid of drone sounds and quiet down exhaust overall. Typically, if you do a lot of highway driving or want the exhaust as quiet as possible, we would recommend the 4” exhaust system. Both size exhaust systems will give you more turbo noise also. Performance gains can be achieved with the 4” and 5” exhaust systems. So what performance gains are made with each of these two systems. What are the requirements to install each? We usually find that the 4” exhaust systems work the best up to 450-500 hp applications and typically have more bottom end torque compared to the 5” within this power range. Over 500 hp can benefit even more from a 5” exhaust system to maximize airflow for any turbo capable of the 500hp+ mark. Installing a 5” exhaust system will dissipate heat quicker and lower your EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temps) even more compared to a 4” exhaust system. Factory exhaust systems have many restrictions that cannot keep up with a modified engine compared to an aftermarket performance exhaust that have better flow. So what about the high flow muffler options with each exhaust?Adding an aftermarket performance muffler to your 4” or 5” exhaust system will not have much affect on EGT temps or power of your exhaust system. The muffler however will quieten down exhaust noise and sometimes drone compared to the straight pipe. It often comes down to only preference for the customer and doesn't benefit flow. Aluminized or Stainless Steel?Most aftermarket exhaust companies offer an aluminized steel or stainless steel exhaust system. Aluminized is an inexpensive option. It will have 3 layers of material. The innermost layer is the steel core. Outside of that is aluminum and the outermost layer is oxidized aluminum. The oxidized aluminum helps protect the inner layer from corrosion.Stainless steel is iron that contains a minimum of 10.5% chromium. Stainless is the most expensive option but you will benefit from strength and longevity over the aluminized steel. Most customers that are in salty or harsh environments will opt for the stainless due to strength and corrosion resistance. Some companies offer long warranties with the stainless steel all the way to lifetime. What about adding an exhaust tip to my system?We offer many options for exhaust tips from stainless to powder coated and ranging in different sizes, shapes &amp; designs depending on your preference. Length of the tip will depend on how far and how much room you have on your tail pipe. The majority of customers will opt for the 15” in length as this will take up most of the tail pipe length to maximize the visual impact of the tip. Exhaust tips offer no performance gains but are only for bragging rights and aesthetics. ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[7]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Robert Breedlove]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[All About the 6.0 Powerstroke FICM - Problems & Solutions]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/All-About-the-60-Powerstroke-FICM--Problems-Solutions_b_6.html</link>
<pubDate>Fri, 27 Sep 2019 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ The Fuel Injection Control Module was installed on all of the Ford 6.0L engines to operate the injectors from the command of the PCM. This setup was very similar to the Ford 7.3L IDM’s. Voltage from the FICM actuates the injector solenoids. To actuate the injector solenoids the FICM must have the correct voltage either 48 volt or 58 volt. Stock non-modified FICM’s will be 48 volts. Upgraded FICM’s are offered at a 58 volt. Running a 58 volt FICM will help with pedal response, hold the injector spool valve further open, increase horsepower(~30hp) and better cold climate starting. <div><br></div><h2>Typical FICM issues: </h2><div>We recommend having your batteries checked first before testing your FICM. They should test between 12.6-12.7 volts. A reading below 12.6 indicates a bad battery or needs to be recharged. Also it is a good idea to have your alternator tested as well. 

-No start
-Engine misfires
-Engine stalling
-Rough engine start hot and or cold
-Engine running rough including intermittent issues </div><div><br></div><h2>Testing the FICM: </h2><div>There are a few different ways to test your FICM. </div><div><br></div><div>You can connect a scan tool that will read FICM voltage. You should have a minimum of 45 volts to be within specification with the ignition key in the RUN position, cranking and engine running. Any voltage reading below 45 volts indicates a bad FICM and will need to be replaced. If you receive a 0 voltage reading while cranking you may have a bad FICM fuse and or relay. </div><div><br></div><div> Another way to test the FICM is to use a voltage meter to test voltage at the FICM itself. There is a small inspection cover on top of the FICM that has two T-20 torx screws that will need to be removed. Ford installed two styles of FICM’s. The 7 pin model was installed in the early(prior to 9/23/2003) builds and the 4 pin models were installed in the late builds. </div><div><br></div><div>To test with a FICM with a 7 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the top left screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. To test with a FICM with a 4 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the far right screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. You will test the same way as we did with the scan tool. Key in run position, cranking and engine running. If voltage drops below 45 volts the FICM will require replacement.</div><div><br></div><div>If you have a 58 volt FICM installed you will need to test FICM with a voltmeter to read the correct voltage. Checking a 58 volt FICM with a scan tool will only show up to ~48 volts. 58 volt FICM include a resistor to fool the PCM so it will not activate a check engine light for an over voltage code. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">Additional FICM Options</span> </h3><div>PHP offers a DIY FICM programmer that includes 4 programs to choose from that can increase your engine’s horsepower and also found to increase fuel mileage on a stock 48 volt and 58 volt FICM. This programmer offers the Economy, 40hp, 80hp and 100hp levels. 

We also offer you the ability to send in your FICM and we can program one of the four FICM flashes that the PHP programmer offers for $150. 

FICM connector pigtails are available just in case you have a broken or worn connectors that are in need of replacement. 

Give us a call or check out our website for further information.</div>      ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/All-About-the-60-Powerstroke-FICM--Problems-Solutions_b_6.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[The Fuel Injection Control Module was installed on all of the Ford 6.0L engines to operate the injectors from the command of the PCM. This setup was very similar to the Ford 7.3L IDM’s. Voltage from the FICM actuates the injector solenoids. To actuate the injector solenoids the FICM must have the correct voltage either 48 volt or 58 volt. Stock non-modified FICM’s will be 48 volts. Upgraded FICM’s are offered at a 58 volt. Running a 58 volt FICM will help with pedal response, hold the injector spool valve further open, increase horsepower(~30hp) and better cold climate starting. <div><br></div><h2>Typical FICM issues: </h2><div>We recommend having your batteries checked first before testing your FICM. They should test between 12.6-12.7 volts. A reading below 12.6 indicates a bad battery or needs to be recharged. Also it is a good idea to have your alternator tested as well. 

-No start
-Engine misfires
-Engine stalling
-Rough engine start hot and or cold
-Engine running rough including intermittent issues </div><div><br></div><h2>Testing the FICM: </h2><div>There are a few different ways to test your FICM. </div><div><br></div><div>You can connect a scan tool that will read FICM voltage. You should have a minimum of 45 volts to be within specification with the ignition key in the RUN position, cranking and engine running. Any voltage reading below 45 volts indicates a bad FICM and will need to be replaced. If you receive a 0 voltage reading while cranking you may have a bad FICM fuse and or relay. </div><div><br></div><div> Another way to test the FICM is to use a voltage meter to test voltage at the FICM itself. There is a small inspection cover on top of the FICM that has two T-20 torx screws that will need to be removed. Ford installed two styles of FICM’s. The 7 pin model was installed in the early(prior to 9/23/2003) builds and the 4 pin models were installed in the late builds. </div><div><br></div><div>To test with a FICM with a 7 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the top left screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. To test with a FICM with a 4 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the far right screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. You will test the same way as we did with the scan tool. Key in run position, cranking and engine running. If voltage drops below 45 volts the FICM will require replacement.</div><div><br></div><div>If you have a 58 volt FICM installed you will need to test FICM with a voltmeter to read the correct voltage. Checking a 58 volt FICM with a scan tool will only show up to ~48 volts. 58 volt FICM include a resistor to fool the PCM so it will not activate a check engine light for an over voltage code. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">Additional FICM Options</span> </h3><div>PHP offers a DIY FICM programmer that includes 4 programs to choose from that can increase your engine’s horsepower and also found to increase fuel mileage on a stock 48 volt and 58 volt FICM. This programmer offers the Economy, 40hp, 80hp and 100hp levels. 

We also offer you the ability to send in your FICM and we can program one of the four FICM flashes that the PHP programmer offers for $150. 

FICM connector pigtails are available just in case you have a broken or worn connectors that are in need of replacement. 

Give us a call or check out our website for further information.</div>     ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[The Fuel Injection Control Module was installed on all of the Ford 6.0L engines to operate the injectors from the command of the PCM. This setup was very similar to the Ford 7.3L IDM’s. Voltage from the FICM actuates the injector solenoids. To actuate the injector solenoids the FICM must have the correct voltage either 48 volt or 58 volt. Stock non-modified FICM’s will be 48 volts. Upgraded FICM’s are offered at a 58 volt. Running a 58 volt FICM will help with pedal response, hold the injector spool valve further open, increase horsepower(~30hp) and better cold climate starting. Typical FICM issues: We recommend having your batteries checked first before testing your FICM. They should test between 12.6-12.7 volts. A reading below 12.6 indicates a bad battery or needs to be recharged. Also it is a good idea to have your alternator tested as well. -No start-Engine misfires-Engine stalling-Rough engine start hot and or cold-Engine running rough including intermittent issues Testing the FICM: There are a few different ways to test your FICM. You can connect a scan tool that will read FICM voltage. You should have a minimum of 45 volts to be within specification with the ignition key in the RUN position, cranking and engine running. Any voltage reading below 45 volts indicates a bad FICM and will need to be replaced. If you receive a 0 voltage reading while cranking you may have a bad FICM fuse and or relay. Another way to test the FICM is to use a voltage meter to test voltage at the FICM itself. There is a small inspection cover on top of the FICM that has two T-20 torx screws that will need to be removed. Ford installed two styles of FICM’s. The 7 pin model was installed in the early(prior to 9/23/2003) builds and the 4 pin models were installed in the late builds. To test with a FICM with a 7 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the top left screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. To test with a FICM with a 4 pin you will connect your volt meter’s positive lead to the far right screw and connect your negative lead to the negative battery terminal. You will test the same way as we did with the scan tool. Key in run position, cranking and engine running. If voltage drops below 45 volts the FICM will require replacement.If you have a 58 volt FICM installed you will need to test FICM with a voltmeter to read the correct voltage. Checking a 58 volt FICM with a scan tool will only show up to ~48 volts. 58 volt FICM include a resistor to fool the PCM so it will not activate a check engine light for an over voltage code. Additional FICM Options PHP offers a DIY FICM programmer that includes 4 programs to choose from that can increase your engine’s horsepower and also found to increase fuel mileage on a stock 48 volt and 58 volt FICM. This programmer offers the Economy, 40hp, 80hp and 100hp levels. We also offer you the ability to send in your FICM and we can program one of the four FICM flashes that the PHP programmer offers for $150. FICM connector pigtails are available just in case you have a broken or worn connectors that are in need of replacement. Give us a call or check out our website for further information.  ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[6]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Robert Breedlove]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[7.3 Injector Comparison - Stage 2 180/80 VS Stage 3 205/30]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Injector-Comparison--Stage-2-18080-VS-Stage-3-20530_b_5.html</link>
<pubDate>Tue, 24 Sep 2019 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ The 7.3 Powerstroke <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/hybrid-205cc-injectors-ffdst3205">Stage 3 205/30's</a> will deliver the same if not better power than a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/stage-2-injectors-ffdst2180">Stage 2 180/80-100</a> all while doing it more efficiently. The 205 are a hybrid and use considerably less high pressure oil than an A code injector.  <div><br></div><div>This means your truck will maintain higher ICP with a smaller high pressure oil pump.  Also by utilizing a smaller nozzle with the larger flow rate you gain more fuel volume at the nozzle resulting in better atomization.  Atomization is ideal in the quest to more power with cooler egt's and less smoke. </div><div><br></div><div>The Stage 2 180cc injectors are still a lower flow rate and with the larger nozzle.  This combination typically runs rather hot and smokey.  This additional smoke is usually frown upon for the lower power they make.  Besides these drawn backs the Stage 2 injector will untimely require an upgraded HPOP to maintain desired ICP over time.  </div><div><br></div><div>The winner seems to be the 205CC Stage 3 Injectors in most cases.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">205CC Hybrids Feature:</span></div><div><ul><li>More Power</li><li>Higher Fuel Atomization</li><li>Potentially better fuel economy </li><li>Less Smoke</li><li>Capable of running on the factory HPOP</li><li>Less strain on the HPOP system</li><li>Lower EGT's</li></ul></div>             ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Injector-Comparison--Stage-2-18080-VS-Stage-3-20530_b_5.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[The 7.3 Powerstroke <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/hybrid-205cc-injectors-ffdst3205">Stage 3 205/30's</a> will deliver the same if not better power than a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/stage-2-injectors-ffdst2180">Stage 2 180/80-100</a> all while doing it more efficiently. The 205 are a hybrid and use considerably less high pressure oil than an A code injector.  <div><br></div><div>This means your truck will maintain higher ICP with a smaller high pressure oil pump.  Also by utilizing a smaller nozzle with the larger flow rate you gain more fuel volume at the nozzle resulting in better atomization.  Atomization is ideal in the quest to more power with cooler egt's and less smoke. </div><div><br></div><div>The Stage 2 180cc injectors are still a lower flow rate and with the larger nozzle.  This combination typically runs rather hot and smokey.  This additional smoke is usually frown upon for the lower power they make.  Besides these drawn backs the Stage 2 injector will untimely require an upgraded HPOP to maintain desired ICP over time.  </div><div><br></div><div>The winner seems to be the 205CC Stage 3 Injectors in most cases.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">205CC Hybrids Feature:</span></div><div><ul><li>More Power</li><li>Higher Fuel Atomization</li><li>Potentially better fuel economy </li><li>Less Smoke</li><li>Capable of running on the factory HPOP</li><li>Less strain on the HPOP system</li><li>Lower EGT's</li></ul></div>            ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[The 7.3 Powerstroke Stage 3 205/30's will deliver the same if not better power than a Stage 2 180/80-100 all while doing it more efficiently. The 205 are a hybrid and use considerably less high pressure oil than an A code injector. This means your truck will maintain higher ICP with a smaller high pressure oil pump. Also by utilizing a smaller nozzle with the larger flow rate you gain more fuel volume at the nozzle resulting in better atomization. Atomization is ideal in the quest to more power with cooler egt's and less smoke. The Stage 2 180cc injectors are still a lower flow rate and with the larger nozzle. This combination typically runs rather hot and smokey. This additional smoke is usually frown upon for the lower power they make. Besides these drawn backs the Stage 2 injector will untimely require an upgraded HPOP to maintain desired ICP over time. The winner seems to be the 205CC Stage 3 Injectors in most cases.205CC Hybrids Feature:More PowerHigher Fuel AtomizationPotentially better fuel economy Less SmokeCapable of running on the factory HPOPLess strain on the HPOP systemLower EGT's   ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[5]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Caylon Golden]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[How & Why - 7.3L Powerstroke Valve Train Upgrades]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/How-Why--73L-Powerstroke-Valve-Train-Upgrades_b_4.html</link>
<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jul 2019 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ <h2><span style="font-weight: bold;">Why do 7.3 Powerstroke valve springs fail?</span></h2><div><img src="/assets/images/valvesprings.jpg" alt="" border="0px"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br></span><div>To maintain the correct valve operation all of the valve springs must exert a certain amount of spring pressure. If spring pressures are low or weak they may cause the valves to not completely seal or float at higher RPM. If the pressure is too high it can cause premature wear on other valve train parts. Adding power upgrades can also cause the springs to exceed strength limits.</div><div><br></div><div>A broken valve spring can cause running issues, valve noise, low compression and internal engine damage. A failed valve spring is not always the most serious issue but actions following the failed spring cause the most serious damage. If a valve spring breaks it may collapse enough to allow the valve to drop into the cylinder and cause the piston to come in contact. This can give you piston, cylinder head and other part damages. </div><div><br></div><h2><span style="font-weight: bold;">Why do 7.3 Powerstroke Push Rods fail or bend?</span></h2><div><img src="/assets/images/bent pushrod.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br></span></div><div>Typical failures are due to a weak cylinder or the engine is not running correctly, failed/sticking lifter, incorrect engine timing and over tightened rocker arms. Also adding horsepower upgrades could exceed the strength limits of your pushrods. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">Should I upgrade my valve train if I install larger than stock injectors? </span></h3><div>Yes and no. Depending on the size injector you may be just fine with your stock pushrods and valve springs. Typically any size injector up to our stage 2 will be ok running the stock valve train components. Any size larger we recommend performing the valve train upgrades including head studs. Head studs can be installed one by one without removing the cylinder heads. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what are the best products to upgrade your valve train?</span></h3><div>Comp Cams 910 valve springs recommended from a 205cc injector to a 250cc injector.</div><div><br></div><div>Comp Cams Stage 2 valve springs recommended from a 275cc or larger injector. </div><div><br></div><div>Smith Brothers Stage 1 pushrods recommended for any size up to a 275cc injector.</div><div><br></div><div>Smith Brothers Stage 2 pushrods recommended for any size larger than a 275cc injector. </div>  </div>                ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/How-Why--73L-Powerstroke-Valve-Train-Upgrades_b_4.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2><span style="font-weight: bold;">Why do 7.3 Powerstroke valve springs fail?</span></h2><div><img src="/assets/images/valvesprings.jpg" alt="" border="0px"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br></span><div>To maintain the correct valve operation all of the valve springs must exert a certain amount of spring pressure. If spring pressures are low or weak they may cause the valves to not completely seal or float at higher RPM. If the pressure is too high it can cause premature wear on other valve train parts. Adding power upgrades can also cause the springs to exceed strength limits.</div><div><br></div><div>A broken valve spring can cause running issues, valve noise, low compression and internal engine damage. A failed valve spring is not always the most serious issue but actions following the failed spring cause the most serious damage. If a valve spring breaks it may collapse enough to allow the valve to drop into the cylinder and cause the piston to come in contact. This can give you piston, cylinder head and other part damages. </div><div><br></div><h2><span style="font-weight: bold;">Why do 7.3 Powerstroke Push Rods fail or bend?</span></h2><div><img src="/assets/images/bent pushrod.jpg" alt="" border="0px"></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br></span></div><div>Typical failures are due to a weak cylinder or the engine is not running correctly, failed/sticking lifter, incorrect engine timing and over tightened rocker arms. Also adding horsepower upgrades could exceed the strength limits of your pushrods. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">Should I upgrade my valve train if I install larger than stock injectors? </span></h3><div>Yes and no. Depending on the size injector you may be just fine with your stock pushrods and valve springs. Typically any size injector up to our stage 2 will be ok running the stock valve train components. Any size larger we recommend performing the valve train upgrades including head studs. Head studs can be installed one by one without removing the cylinder heads. </div><div><br></div><h3><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what are the best products to upgrade your valve train?</span></h3><div>Comp Cams 910 valve springs recommended from a 205cc injector to a 250cc injector.</div><div><br></div><div>Comp Cams Stage 2 valve springs recommended from a 275cc or larger injector. </div><div><br></div><div>Smith Brothers Stage 1 pushrods recommended for any size up to a 275cc injector.</div><div><br></div><div>Smith Brothers Stage 2 pushrods recommended for any size larger than a 275cc injector. </div>  </div>               ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[Why do 7.3 Powerstroke valve springs fail?To maintain the correct valve operation all of the valve springs must exert a certain amount of spring pressure. If spring pressures are low or weak they may cause the valves to not completely seal or float at higher RPM. If the pressure is too high it can cause premature wear on other valve train parts. Adding power upgrades can also cause the springs to exceed strength limits.A broken valve spring can cause running issues, valve noise, low compression and internal engine damage. A failed valve spring is not always the most serious issue but actions following the failed spring cause the most serious damage. If a valve spring breaks it may collapse enough to allow the valve to drop into the cylinder and cause the piston to come in contact. This can give you piston, cylinder head and other part damages. Why do 7.3 Powerstroke Push Rods fail or bend?Typical failures are due to a weak cylinder or the engine is not running correctly, failed/sticking lifter, incorrect engine timing and over tightened rocker arms. Also adding horsepower upgrades could exceed the strength limits of your pushrods. Should I upgrade my valve train if I install larger than stock injectors? Yes and no. Depending on the size injector you may be just fine with your stock pushrods and valve springs. Typically any size injector up to our stage 2 will be ok running the stock valve train components. Any size larger we recommend performing the valve train upgrades including head studs. Head studs can be installed one by one without removing the cylinder heads. So what are the best products to upgrade your valve train?Comp Cams 910 valve springs recommended from a 205cc injector to a 250cc injector.Comp Cams Stage 2 valve springs recommended from a 275cc or larger injector. Smith Brothers Stage 1 pushrods recommended for any size up to a 275cc injector.Smith Brothers Stage 2 pushrods recommended for any size larger than a 275cc injector.     ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[4]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Robert Breedlove]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[7.3 Hydra Chip VS 7.3 TS Chip]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Hydra-Chip-VS-73-TS-Chip_b_3.html</link>
<pubDate>Thu, 14 Mar 2019 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ <span style="font-weight: bold;">The Similarities. </span><div>Both the <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/ts-6-position-chip" target="_blank">TS Performance 6 Position Chip</a> and the <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/php-hydra-chip" target="_blank">PHP Hydra Chip</a> are multi-position chips that can shift on the fly.  Both come with tuning for stock injectors.  They can each hold multiple programs.  Both plug into the PCM at the access port.  They each have a cable and a selector to choose between the loaded programs.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Switch:</span></div><div>Both products use a switch attached to the chip with a cable to select the programs.  The TS Chip has a rotatory knob that clicks from left to righ (low to high) six times.  Each click is a new position and a different program.  The Hydra relies on a digital switch with a LED read out to actually show you the position your are on.  The Hydra switch is about the size of a automotive key fob.  To select the programs on the Hydra you simply press one of the two buttons located on it.  Left button moves one position down.  Right button is one position up.</div><div><br></div><div>Mounting the switch is different for both.  The TS switch needs a hole drilled somewhere in the vehicle to hold the knob.  The Hydra however relies on double sided tape or velcro to hold it to the dash.  No permanent hole is need on the Hydra.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Programming:</span></div><div>Both chips will need programmed to your specific vehicle.  </div><div><br></div><div>The TS chip needs to be programmed before hand and sent to the customer.  To change the programming on the TS you'll have to send it to an authorized dealer for that to be done.  This causes down time for the user due to shipping transit times.  Max tunes capacity is 6.</div><div><br></div><div>The Hydra however can be tuned and re-tuned at home with the free <a href="https://www.gopowerhungry.com/hydraflash/_hydraflash.shtml" target="_blank">Hydra Flash Software</a> download.  Each program for every truck is available for stock injectors to add and change as many times as need from your home PC.  Max tune capacity is 15.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Custom Tuning:</span></div><div>Both have the ability to hold custom tunes for your vehicle.  The same applies for each.  The TS Chip needs to be sent to an authorized tuner or dealer to apply to tuning.  The Hydra can have tunes emailed to the user for self install at home via the Hydra Software and a PC.  You can add individual tunes to the Hydra as needed.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Add on Accessories:</span></div><div>Both the TS and the Hydra have available add on Pod selectors switches (see tagged products)</div><div><br></div><div>The Hydra has other available add on accessories.  You can get the Hydra Chip Cable to remotely tune the chip without removing it from the vehicle.  You can purchase longer ribbon cables that connect the chip to the switch.  </div><div><br></div><div>If you have any question please call our sales team or contact us through the website.</div><div><br></div>        ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-Hydra-Chip-VS-73-TS-Chip_b_3.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<span style="font-weight: bold;">The Similarities. </span><div>Both the <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/ts-6-position-chip" target="_blank">TS Performance 6 Position Chip</a> and the <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/php-hydra-chip" target="_blank">PHP Hydra Chip</a> are multi-position chips that can shift on the fly.  Both come with tuning for stock injectors.  They can each hold multiple programs.  Both plug into the PCM at the access port.  They each have a cable and a selector to choose between the loaded programs.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Switch:</span></div><div>Both products use a switch attached to the chip with a cable to select the programs.  The TS Chip has a rotatory knob that clicks from left to righ (low to high) six times.  Each click is a new position and a different program.  The Hydra relies on a digital switch with a LED read out to actually show you the position your are on.  The Hydra switch is about the size of a automotive key fob.  To select the programs on the Hydra you simply press one of the two buttons located on it.  Left button moves one position down.  Right button is one position up.</div><div><br></div><div>Mounting the switch is different for both.  The TS switch needs a hole drilled somewhere in the vehicle to hold the knob.  The Hydra however relies on double sided tape or velcro to hold it to the dash.  No permanent hole is need on the Hydra.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Programming:</span></div><div>Both chips will need programmed to your specific vehicle.  </div><div><br></div><div>The TS chip needs to be programmed before hand and sent to the customer.  To change the programming on the TS you'll have to send it to an authorized dealer for that to be done.  This causes down time for the user due to shipping transit times.  Max tunes capacity is 6.</div><div><br></div><div>The Hydra however can be tuned and re-tuned at home with the free <a href="https://www.gopowerhungry.com/hydraflash/_hydraflash.shtml" target="_blank">Hydra Flash Software</a> download.  Each program for every truck is available for stock injectors to add and change as many times as need from your home PC.  Max tune capacity is 15.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Custom Tuning:</span></div><div>Both have the ability to hold custom tunes for your vehicle.  The same applies for each.  The TS Chip needs to be sent to an authorized tuner or dealer to apply to tuning.  The Hydra can have tunes emailed to the user for self install at home via the Hydra Software and a PC.  You can add individual tunes to the Hydra as needed.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Add on Accessories:</span></div><div>Both the TS and the Hydra have available add on Pod selectors switches (see tagged products)</div><div><br></div><div>The Hydra has other available add on accessories.  You can get the Hydra Chip Cable to remotely tune the chip without removing it from the vehicle.  You can purchase longer ribbon cables that connect the chip to the switch.  </div><div><br></div><div>If you have any question please call our sales team or contact us through the website.</div><div><br></div>       ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[The Similarities. Both the TS Performance 6 Position Chip and the PHP Hydra Chip are multi-position chips that can shift on the fly. Both come with tuning for stock injectors. They can each hold multiple programs. Both plug into the PCM at the access port. They each have a cable and a selector to choose between the loaded programs.The Switch:Both products use a switch attached to the chip with a cable to select the programs. The TS Chip has a rotatory knob that clicks from left to righ (low to high) six times. Each click is a new position and a different program. The Hydra relies on a digital switch with a LED read out to actually show you the position your are on. The Hydra switch is about the size of a automotive key fob. To select the programs on the Hydra you simply press one of the two buttons located on it. Left button moves one position down. Right button is one position up.Mounting the switch is different for both. The TS switch needs a hole drilled somewhere in the vehicle to hold the knob. The Hydra however relies on double sided tape or velcro to hold it to the dash. No permanent hole is need on the Hydra.The Programming:Both chips will need programmed to your specific vehicle. The TS chip needs to be programmed before hand and sent to the customer. To change the programming on the TS you'll have to send it to an authorized dealer for that to be done. This causes down time for the user due to shipping transit times. Max tunes capacity is 6.The Hydra however can be tuned and re-tuned at home with the free Hydra Flash Software download. Each program for every truck is available for stock injectors to add and change as many times as need from your home PC. Max tune capacity is 15.Custom Tuning:Both have the ability to hold custom tunes for your vehicle. The same applies for each. The TS Chip needs to be sent to an authorized tuner or dealer to apply to tuning. The Hydra can have tunes emailed to the user for self install at home via the Hydra Software and a PC. You can add individual tunes to the Hydra as needed.Add on Accessories:Both the TS and the Hydra have available add on Pod selectors switches (see tagged products)The Hydra has other available add on accessories. You can get the Hydra Chip Cable to remotely tune the chip without removing it from the vehicle. You can purchase longer ribbon cables that connect the chip to the switch. If you have any question please call our sales team or contact us through the website.  ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[3]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Chris S.]]></isc:author>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[All About 7.3 Performance Injectors]]></title>
<link>https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/All-About-73-Performance-Injectors_b_2.html</link>
<pubDate>Thu, 14 Mar 2019 00:00:00 EST</pubDate>
<description><![CDATA[ So you are ready in the next step to upgrade your 7.3 Powerstroke.  As your trucks injectors wear out or fail you must ask yourself should you spend a few more dollars to increase the performance of your injectors?<div><br></div><div>Modified performance 7.3 Powerstroke <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-injectors" target="_blank">Full Force Injectors</a> can give you a moderate boost in fuel economy and performance.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Let's start with the stock injectors. </span> </div><div>The 7.3 Powerstroke stock injector is just that, for stock truck performance.  They are limited by the total fuel output.  OBS injectors are rated at approximately 90cc of flow and they are single shot by design.  The supderduty injectors are limited to a effective flow rate of approximately 120cc of flow in a split shot design.  With these flow rates you are limited in power by a performance chip to the max potential of the stock injectors.  Max HP with a chip will net you around 70 HP in the OBS and around 140 HP in the Superduty truck.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what makes a performance injector make more power? </span> </div><div>When the injectors are modified, all injectors at Full Force are converted to a single shot design.  This design is best for overall performance and injector efficiency.  In the Superduty 99-03 this is especially beneficial to completely remove the split shot of the stock injector.  This is wasted fuel that's not used by the truck for making power but to lower the engine noise by about 15-20%.  </div><div><br></div><div>Full Force increases the CC of fuel delivery and nozzle sizes to achieve more power and performance.  With modifications inside the injector we can increase the flow rate up to 450 cc's of fuel flow.  Modifications of this type allow the injector (when modified with <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-custom-tuning" target="_blank">Injector Tuning</a>) to open farther and increase the fuel volume into the cylinder.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what do the CC flow and nozzle size mean? </span></div><div>Each increase in CC of flow will inject more fuel into the cylinder to make a larger explosion inside the engine.  So what about stock nozzles or modified nozzles?  The larger the nozzle the faster the injector can empty it's fuel volume into the cylinder.  This nozzle give a more precise timing for the explosion.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">How to choose the correct size performance injector.  </span></div><div>When deciding what size injector best suits your needs you must first decide what you goals are for you.  </div><div><br></div><div>A tow truck or work truck will need less CC and a smaller nozzle.  The reason for this is simple.  Lower EGT's and less strain on your drivetrain.  Can you add bigger injectors and still tow?  Absolutely, but keep in mind you will need to upgrade to lower the risk of high EGT's and possibly improve your drivetrain durability.  To lower the EGT's you can add more air with a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-turbo-upgrades" target="_blank">turbo upgrade</a>.</div><div><br></div><div>A street truck can handle a larger CC injector due to the fact the EGT's will be less of a concern.  When not loaded short bursts of high EGT's are acceptable and shouldn't result in problems.  However the drivetrain will suffer high levels of strain as the HP is increased.  Turbo upgrades and drivetrain upgrades are recommend to run larger injectors.</div><div><br></div><div>A competition truck does not have CC limits due to the fact that most of these trucks need to produce the most power and performance available.  The trucks are typically highly modified and usually aren't street driven on a daily basis.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">What upgrades do you need with injectors?</span></div><div>All trucks will need to have <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-gauges" target="_blank">gauges</a> to monitor your trucks performance.  All trucks will need a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-custom-tuning" target="_blank">injector specific tuned chip</a> to increase the flow and tell the truck to utilize the upgrades.  Other than these two highly important upgrades, each and every modification you do to your truck to increase airflow through the engine will allow you to utilize more of the power and possibly increase the size of your injector upgrade recommendation.  The airflow upgrades include <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-cold-air-intakes" target="_blank">cold air intakes</a>, <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-exhaust" target="_blank">exhaust systems</a>, and <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-turbo-upgrades" target="_blank">turbo upgrades</a>.</div><div><br></div><div>If you have any questions call our sales team or contact us today!</div>               ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/All-About-73-Performance-Injectors_b_2.html</guid>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[So you are ready in the next step to upgrade your 7.3 Powerstroke.  As your trucks injectors wear out or fail you must ask yourself should you spend a few more dollars to increase the performance of your injectors?<div><br></div><div>Modified performance 7.3 Powerstroke <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-injectors" target="_blank">Full Force Injectors</a> can give you a moderate boost in fuel economy and performance.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Let's start with the stock injectors. </span> </div><div>The 7.3 Powerstroke stock injector is just that, for stock truck performance.  They are limited by the total fuel output.  OBS injectors are rated at approximately 90cc of flow and they are single shot by design.  The supderduty injectors are limited to a effective flow rate of approximately 120cc of flow in a split shot design.  With these flow rates you are limited in power by a performance chip to the max potential of the stock injectors.  Max HP with a chip will net you around 70 HP in the OBS and around 140 HP in the Superduty truck.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what makes a performance injector make more power? </span> </div><div>When the injectors are modified, all injectors at Full Force are converted to a single shot design.  This design is best for overall performance and injector efficiency.  In the Superduty 99-03 this is especially beneficial to completely remove the split shot of the stock injector.  This is wasted fuel that's not used by the truck for making power but to lower the engine noise by about 15-20%.  </div><div><br></div><div>Full Force increases the CC of fuel delivery and nozzle sizes to achieve more power and performance.  With modifications inside the injector we can increase the flow rate up to 450 cc's of fuel flow.  Modifications of this type allow the injector (when modified with <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-custom-tuning" target="_blank">Injector Tuning</a>) to open farther and increase the fuel volume into the cylinder.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what do the CC flow and nozzle size mean? </span></div><div>Each increase in CC of flow will inject more fuel into the cylinder to make a larger explosion inside the engine.  So what about stock nozzles or modified nozzles?  The larger the nozzle the faster the injector can empty it's fuel volume into the cylinder.  This nozzle give a more precise timing for the explosion.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">How to choose the correct size performance injector.  </span></div><div>When deciding what size injector best suits your needs you must first decide what you goals are for you.  </div><div><br></div><div>A tow truck or work truck will need less CC and a smaller nozzle.  The reason for this is simple.  Lower EGT's and less strain on your drivetrain.  Can you add bigger injectors and still tow?  Absolutely, but keep in mind you will need to upgrade to lower the risk of high EGT's and possibly improve your drivetrain durability.  To lower the EGT's you can add more air with a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-turbo-upgrades" target="_blank">turbo upgrade</a>.</div><div><br></div><div>A street truck can handle a larger CC injector due to the fact the EGT's will be less of a concern.  When not loaded short bursts of high EGT's are acceptable and shouldn't result in problems.  However the drivetrain will suffer high levels of strain as the HP is increased.  Turbo upgrades and drivetrain upgrades are recommend to run larger injectors.</div><div><br></div><div>A competition truck does not have CC limits due to the fact that most of these trucks need to produce the most power and performance available.  The trucks are typically highly modified and usually aren't street driven on a daily basis.</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-weight: bold;">What upgrades do you need with injectors?</span></div><div>All trucks will need to have <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-gauges" target="_blank">gauges</a> to monitor your trucks performance.  All trucks will need a <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-custom-tuning" target="_blank">injector specific tuned chip</a> to increase the flow and tell the truck to utilize the upgrades.  Other than these two highly important upgrades, each and every modification you do to your truck to increase airflow through the engine will allow you to utilize more of the power and possibly increase the size of your injector upgrade recommendation.  The airflow upgrades include <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-cold-air-intakes" target="_blank">cold air intakes</a>, <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-exhaust" target="_blank">exhaust systems</a>, and <a href="https://shop.fullforcediesel.com/73-turbo-upgrades" target="_blank">turbo upgrades</a>.</div><div><br></div><div>If you have any questions call our sales team or contact us today!</div>              ]]></content:encoded>
<isc:description><![CDATA[So you are ready in the next step to upgrade your 7.3 Powerstroke. As your trucks injectors wear out or fail you must ask yourself should you spend a few more dollars to increase the performance of your injectors?Modified performance 7.3 Powerstroke Full Force Injectors can give you a moderate boost in fuel economy and performance.Let's start with the stock injectors. The 7.3 Powerstroke stock injector is just that, for stock truck performance. They are limited by the total fuel output. OBS injectors are rated at approximately 90cc of flow and they are single shot by design. The supderduty injectors are limited to a effective flow rate of approximately 120cc of flow in a split shot design. With these flow rates you are limited in power by a performance chip to the max potential of the stock injectors. Max HP with a chip will net you around 70 HP in the OBS and around 140 HP in the Superduty truck.So what makes a performance injector make more power? When the injectors are modified, all injectors at Full Force are converted to a single shot design. This design is best for overall performance and injector efficiency. In the Superduty 99-03 this is especially beneficial to completely remove the split shot of the stock injector. This is wasted fuel that's not used by the truck for making power but to lower the engine noise by about 15-20%. Full Force increases the CC of fuel delivery and nozzle sizes to achieve more power and performance. With modifications inside the injector we can increase the flow rate up to 450 cc's of fuel flow. Modifications of this type allow the injector (when modified with Injector Tuning) to open farther and increase the fuel volume into the cylinder.So what do the CC flow and nozzle size mean? Each increase in CC of flow will inject more fuel into the cylinder to make a larger explosion inside the engine. So what about stock nozzles or modified nozzles? The larger the nozzle the faster the injector can empty it's fuel volume into the cylinder. This nozzle give a more precise timing for the explosion.How to choose the correct size performance injector. When deciding what size injector best suits your needs you must first decide what you goals are for you. A tow truck or work truck will need less CC and a smaller nozzle. The reason for this is simple. Lower EGT's and less strain on your drivetrain. Can you add bigger injectors and still tow? Absolutely, but keep in mind you will need to upgrade to lower the risk of high EGT's and possibly improve your drivetrain durability. To lower the EGT's you can add more air with a turbo upgrade.A street truck can handle a larger CC injector due to the fact the EGT's will be less of a concern. When not loaded short bursts of high EGT's are acceptable and shouldn't result in problems. However the drivetrain will suffer high levels of strain as the HP is increased. Turbo upgrades and drivetrain upgrades are recommend to run larger injectors.A competition truck does not have CC limits due to the fact that most of these trucks need to produce the most power and performance available. The trucks are typically highly modified and usually aren't street driven on a daily basis.What upgrades do you need with injectors?All trucks will need to have gauges to monitor your trucks performance. All trucks will need a injector specific tuned chip to increase the flow and tell the truck to utilize the upgrades. Other than these two highly important upgrades, each and every modification you do to your truck to increase airflow through the engine will allow you to utilize more of the power and possibly increase the size of your injector upgrade recommendation. The airflow upgrades include cold air intakes, exhaust systems, and turbo upgrades.If you have any questions call our sales team or contact us today!    ]]></isc:description>
<isc:productid><![CDATA[2]]></isc:productid>
<isc:author><![CDATA[Chris S.]]></isc:author>
</item>
</channel></rss>